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2025-04-21

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"Walking with the Master: The 'Taipei New Shikoku Pilgrimage' - Accompanying You Along the Way, Making Your Pilgrimage Journey No Longer Lonely"

讀後心得
Kōbō Daishi, known posthumously as "Hōbō Daishi," holds a prestigious position in Japan and is honored with the title of "Master." This recognition is not only due to his accomplishments in calligraphy, as he is also one of Japan's "Three Great Calligraphers," but also for founding schools for the common people and the Shingon sect. To this day, there are devotees who regularly worship at Mount Kōya, praying for peace and happiness. The "Tianzhu Temple" in Taipei serves as the center of Kōbō Daishi's faith in Taiwan, hidden amidst the bustle but exuding a tranquil power. The footprints of the Master and his religious faith continue through the 88 sacred sites of Shikoku in Taipei, while the "Rinzai Huguo Zen Temple" in Yuanshan and the "Puji Temple" in Beitou are key points on the pilgrimage route, allowing devotees to experience the blend of spirituality and history on their journey. Such a pilgrimage is not only a journey in search of the soul but also a way to rediscover the beauty of life.

The posthumous title "Kōbō Daishi" of Kūkai holds an unparalleled status in Japan, and he is uniquely honored with the title of "Master." Renowned for his exceptional calligraphy, he is one of Japan's "Three Brushes" and founded Japan's first public school and the Shingon sect. To this day, many devotees believe he still walks among us, praying for world peace and human happiness. Therefore, at Kōyasan in Japan, the "Shōshin Offering" ceremony is held twice daily, regardless of the weather, to offer meals to Kōbō Daishi. His faith continues to grow, and his influence is boundless. The pilgrimage journey through Shikoku is increasingly becoming a global hotspot, and his connection to Taiwan can be traced back to the "Taipei Tianhou Temple."

The Taipei Tianhou Temple is located on the busy Chengdu Road. Although it lacks a grand archway and an obvious temple gate, its presence is like an orchid in a valley, quietly exhibiting the power of life even when unnoticed. This place not only serves as an important center of faith but also as a holy site amidst the bustling city, allowing people to enjoy a moment of tranquility amid the noise.

Upon entering the temple, the environment transforms into a serene and peaceful atmosphere, a stark contrast to the prior hustle and bustle. Hidden in the courtyards on either side are crucial clues: a statue of Kōbō Daishi stands beside a tiger, while the first two stone Buddhas of Taipei's 88 sacred sites are among the group of bodhisattva statues on the dragon side, introducing Kōbō Daishi's religious beliefs and pilgrimage activities.

The "Kōbō Temple" and "Taipei Tianhou Temple" share a deep historical connection. Although time and space have caused Kōbō Daishi to become less visible, he has miraculously reemerged in the temples of Taiwan, protecting the beings of this land alongside many deities and passing down his extraordinary spirit. During the Japanese colonial period, the 88 sacred sites were established by devotees of the Shingon sect, inspired by Kōbō Daishi's pilgrimage routes, with stone Buddhas situated throughout Taipei, the first and second being located at the then Kōbō Temple, making it an inseparable part of our daily religious journey.

The "Beitou Linji Huguo Temple" is the only temple in Taiwan officially named "Huguo." Among the existing 88 stone Buddhas, many have vanished, but the Linji Huguo Temple in Yuanshan is currently the place with the most visible chicken Buddhas, totaling nine, making it the largest remaining Buddhist temple with wooden architecture from the Japanese rule period in Taiwan. The Linji sect might be unfamiliar to many, but the line "Without experiencing the bitter cold, how can one smell the plum blossom's fragrance?" is likely well-known to all.

The old bell tower mountain gate is highly distinctive and resembles the bell tower of Donghe Zen Temple, representing a rare example of Japanese Edo-period architectural style in Taiwan. The tiles on the eaves are embossed with the "Two Characters, Three Stars" pattern, said to be related to historical figures, while the tiles on the other side of the Main Hall bear the character "Zhen," used for warding off evil or calming winds. The corners of the eaves also feature mysterious "lock-drains," which not only serve a drainage function but also enhance the visual and auditory enjoyment on rainy days.

Following the stone steps up the back hill leads to the Wanling Pagoda, where nine stone Buddhas are arranged in a fan shape, and there is a historically significant hair pagoda to visit. Standing at the square in front, one can overlook the Taipei basin, accurately describing it as "a flat land rising like a dragon." It is indeed renowned as Taiwan's first urban park.

Using "Beitou Pujisi" as the endpoint of this pilgrimage route is quite appropriate. Besides the beautiful natural environment, the hot springs and local delicacies also add much color to the pilgrimage journey, allowing every traveler to relax after their journey. This perfect arrangement seems to symbolize the journey of life, encompassing both prosperity and simplicity. Even after experiencing lows, one can ultimately climb to the peaks. Through the changing seasons, one also enjoys the beauty of nature. Amid the constant transformations of the outside world, the inner self remains unchanged; perhaps this is the mystery of the "Taipei Henro" and the charm of Kōbō Daishi.

Situated in the tranquil "Beitou Pujisi," it emanates a simple yet solemn atmosphere, making it hard for one to look away at first glance. The decorations on the ridge and windows of the main hall are different from those of ordinary temples, showcasing the exquisite beauty of Japanese style. Behind the offering table of the main hall, the "Guanyin of the Hot Springs" stands as an important faith symbol in Beitou, and its existence holds an incredible story. The 88th Buddha of Medicine has once disappeared but ultimately returned; this reunion enriches the "Taipei New Shikoku Henro" experience, beginning at Taipei Tianhou Temple and concluding at Beitou Pujisi, perfectly represented here.

Throughout history, many have embarked on this sacred path, with the destination known as "pilgrimage" being a holy site. This path to such a destination is naturally free-spirited, also referred to as "returning to simplicity," guiding people back to the initial purity of life, hence some call it "returning to truth." This time, let us not question the reasons, but follow in the footsteps and heart path of the Master to embark on this incredible journey together.