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2025-04-21

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"Walking with the Master: 'Taipei New Shikoku Pilgrimage' - Accompanying You, Making Your Pilgrimage Journey Not Lonely Anymore"

讀後心得
Kōbō Daishi is an important figure in Japanese culture and religion. He is highly skilled in calligraphy, founded Japan's first public school, and established the Shingon sect. Many followers believe he is still active on Mount Kōya, praying for world peace. Taipei Tianhou Temple is a place of worship for followers of Kōbō Daishi. Although its exterior is simple, the interior evokes a sense of tranquility. It houses two stone Buddhas, representing his faith and pilgrimage activities. There is a profound historical connection between Kōbō Temple and Taipei Tianhou Temple. The subsequent Shikoku 88 Temples pilgrimage has allowed Kōbō Daishi's influence to continue to this day. Beitou Puji Temple is the final destination of this pilgrimage journey, attracting numerous believers with its unique Japanese architecture and faith stories. The entire process is akin to a journey of life, allowing one to reconnect with inner peace and beauty.

The posthumous title "Kōbō Daishi" refers to Kūkai, who holds a revered status in Japan and enjoys the exclusive title of "Daishi." He was skilled in calligraphy, recognized as one of the "Three Great Calligraphers" of Japan, and founded the first public school in Japan, as well as established the Shingon sect of Japanese Buddhism. To this day, many believe he still resides among us, praying for world peace and human happiness. As a result, a "Shōjin-gō" ritual is held twice daily at Kōyasan, where meals are offered to Kōbō Daishi regardless of the weather. His following continues to grow, and his influence spreads widely. The pilgrimage to Shikoku has become a global travel hotspot. His connection with Taiwan can be traced back to the "Taipei Tianhou Temple" located in Ximen Town.

The "Taipei Tianhou Temple" is one of the temples where Kōbō Daishi is revered in Taiwan, nestled amid a row of bustling buildings on Chengdu Road. Although it lacks a grandiose entrance arch and a prominent gate, it is like an orchid quietly blooming in a valley, demonstrating the power of life even when unnoticed. This space not only serves as a significant center of faith but also provides a serene haven amidst the vibrant marketplace, allowing visitors to enjoy a rare moment of tranquility.

Inside the temple lies another beautiful world concealed from the bustling exterior, where the peaceful tranquility stands in stark contrast to the noise outside. The courtyard has significant features, with a statue of Kōbō Daishi on one side, and two stone Buddha heads representing the eighty-eight pilgrimage sites of Shikoku, standing among a stone statue group of Bodhisattvas on the other side, symbolizing Kōbō Daishi's religious faith and pilgrimage activities.

In fact, "Kōbō Temple" has historical ties with "Taipei Tianhou Temple." Although Kōbō Daishi had once faded from time, he miraculously reappears in temples across Taiwan today, together with the deities we know well, safeguarding the sentient beings on this land. This legend highlights the extraordinary significance of "Taipei Tianhou Temple" and transforms it into a spiritual bastion of the place.

During the Japanese occupation, Shingon sect believers established the eighty-eight sacred sites in Taipei, inspired by Kōbō Daishi's pilgrimage routes, placing stone Buddhas in locations such as Yuanshan, Zhishan Rock, Caoshanzhong, Zhuzi Lake, and Beitou, replacing the temples with these stone Buddhas. The first two stone Buddhas were housed in the then Kōbō Temple, unexpectedly transforming this healing pilgrimage into a key element of success, allowing religious beliefs to penetrate deeply into our daily lives.

The "Taipei Linji Huguo Zen Temple" is the only temple in Taiwan with the name "Huguo." Of the original eighty-eight stone Buddhas, many no longer exist. This temple, located in Yuanshan, is currently the place where one can view the most stone Buddhas at once, housing nine of them, and is the only temple in Taiwan officially named "Huguo," preserving the largest wooden construction from the Japanese period. While many may be unfamiliar with the "Linji School," a famous poem that widely circulates states: "Without experiencing the chill penetrating to the bone, how can one smell the perfume of plum blossoms?" This poem was composed by Huangbo Xiyun, a teacher of Linji Yixuan, the founder of the Linji school.

The entrance of the temple features a distinctive bell tower mountain gate, resembling the style of Tōwa Zen Temple, representing a rare Edo period architectural style in Taiwan. The eaves are adorned with tubular tiles inscribed with the "Two Characters and Three Stars" pattern, linked to Governor Kodama Gentaro, while another side of the Daitō Hall is marked by the character "Zhen," primarily used for exorcism or calming winds. The design of the "Lock Drain" above and below the eaves not only serves a drainage function but also adds visual and auditory enjoyment on rainy days.

Following the stone steps up the back mountain, one can reach the Ten Thousand Spirit Pagoda, where nine stone Buddhas are arranged in a fan shape before the square, along with the hair pagoda erected by Kodama Gentaro, all holding significant historical meaning. Standing on the square with a view downward, you can enjoy the scenery of the Taipei Basin. The early ancestors aptly described the shape of Yuanshan as "a flat ground rising like a dragon," justly earning it the title of "Taiwan's First Metropolitan Park."

Concluding the pilgrimage route at "Beitou Puji Temple" is just perfect. The beautiful mountains and waters here, along with the hot springs and delicacies, play significant roles, allowing everyone to relieve the fatigue gained along the journey. This perfect arrangement seems to suggest that life, like this pilgrimage, must pursue both prosperity and a return to tranquility. Having experienced the lows, one can ultimately reach the peaks, akin to the changing of the seasons. Despite going through spring, summer, autumn, and winter, one can still feel the wonderful changes of life, while the soul remains unchanged. Perhaps this is the secret of the "Taipei pilgrimage," accompanied by the enduring charm of Kōbō Daishi.

To this day, many still embark on this sacred path, referred to as "pilgrimage," with the way to reach it seen as a return to simplicity, guiding people back to the initial beauty of life. It prompts one to ponder, let us follow the Master's footsteps and embark on this wonderful journey without questioning the reasons or pursuing a goal.